When it comes to the most eye-catching player on the watchmaking scene in recent years, Tudor comes to mind. It is probably because it presents a watch that combines solid basics with bold attempts. Among them, there are many killer items that snipe the taste of watch lovers. At Watches & Wonders 2023 Geneva, Tudor showed a somewhat calmer side, refining his existing products a little more. Tudor watches seem very reasonably priced as watch prices have gone up significantly across the board. Even more so when you consider performance. All Tudor watches are assembled and tested in the new Manufacture building in Le Locle, Switzerland, due to be completed in 2021. It is also connected to Kenissi, which produces Tudor movements. The biggest issue is that all replica watches in the future will be certified as Master Chronometers by the Swiss Federal Society for Metrology (METAS).
The third version of the Black Bay with a trendy burgundy colored bezel. In 2012, a burgundy bezel was installed on the black bay for the first time, and in 2016, a manufacture movement was installed to enhance its marketability. And this year, it succeeded in its third evolution by receiving Master Chronometer certification. The Master Chronometer Certification, administered by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), is a more comprehensive certification scheme than the traditional Chronometer Certification (COSC). In order to obtain Master Chronometer Certification, several conditions must be met. For example, a watch must be made in Switzerland and must function without problems when exposed to a magnetic field of 15000 Gauss. A watch equipped with a movement must have an error of 0 to +5 seconds per day. In addition, waterproof performance and power reserve tests in accordance with the international standard ISO 22810:2010 must pass. Tudor plans to expand Master Chronometer certification to all products in the future, starting with the new Black Bay model. Like Omega, which took seven years for all of its watches to receive Master Chronometer certification, Tudor is expected to go through years of preparation.
The diameter of the stainless steel case is the same as the previous Black Bay, 41mm, but the design has been refined and ergonomically upgraded. By reducing the thickness of the middle case and designing the shape of the case back to be more domed, we succeeded in reducing the thickness by more than 1mm to 13.6mm. As the thickness decreased, the fit naturally improved. The unidirectional rotating bezel with a burgundy aluminum insert that gives it a different feel from ceramic has a deep groove for better handling. One of the differences is that the crown and case are placed so closely that the color tube between the crown and case, embossed with the symbol of Tudor, is not visible. The case back, which requires a dedicated tool, and the 200m water resistance are maintained. Adopted a domed sapphire crystal glass that creates a vintage atmosphere.
Changes can also be detected on the black dial decorated with various designs of appliqué indexes. The waterproof performance and master chronometer certification are listed in two lines in gold letters. It has changed to a more concise and clean impression than the previous version, which was three lines. The slightly curved domed black dial has been slightly crafted with sunray processing. The snow flake hour hand and pencil-like minute hand have not changed, but the second hand has been changed to a lollipop shape. It is said that it was inspired by the lollipop second hand used in Tudor’s early diver’s watches. The hands and indices are filled with cream-colored Superluminova to give it an old watch look.
The new Black Bay comes standard with a brushed three-row stainless steel bracelet, a brushed and polished jubilee bracelet, and a rubber strap. The rubber strap is available in three sizes. The inside of the rubber strap is filled with a snowflake pattern to prevent slipping. All straps and bracelets feature T-Fit clasps that can be finely adjusted in length up to 8 mm without tools. Ceramic ball bearings are inserted where the clasp folds and unlocks, so the operation feels smooth and once locked, it does not come loose, so you can wear the watch safely.
Manufacture caliber MT5602-U by Kennish only displays hours, minutes and seconds. Although the functions are simple, the performance is superior as it has been certified as a Master Chronometer. The movement is laser-engraved with a unique radial pattern. Other than that, there is nothing to discuss about the finish of the movement. Tudor’s mindset to be faithful to the internal stability is conveyed. The openworked rotor with a sandblasted surface is made of tungsten. A free sprung balance is connected to the balance bridge to ensure excellent movement. A silicon balance spring is used for excellent anti-magnetic properties. The power reserve is 70 hours, so even if you take off the watch on the weekend, you can wear it right away on Monday. The frequency per hour is 28,800 vph (4 Hz).
The price of the Tudor Black Bay is 5.77 million won for the three-row stainless steel bracelet model, 5.91 million won for the Jubilee bracelet model, and 5.49 million won for the rubber strap model.
It was in 1954 that Tudor created his first diver’s watch. Tudor devoted himself to diver’s watch development while supplying diver’s watches to the French Navy’s Underwater Research Group (Groupement d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines, G.E.R.S.) and the US Navy. Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. delivered to G.E.R.S. The 7922 was a diver’s watch that was waterproof to a depth of 100m. Since then, Tudor has raised the waterproof performance to 200m, the Oyster Prince Submariner “Big Crown” Ref. 7924 and other watches were produced, and he was active in the field of diver’s watch. The Black Bay 54 is a Ref. This product was produced with the meaning of commemorating 7922.
The diameter of the stainless steel case is 37 mm. It’s a size that will welcome you with open arms if you’re tired of big fake watches, or if you’re a fan of or enjoy vintage watches. The thickness is 11.24mm, so you can feel comfortable wearing it. The sides and corners of the case are polished while the rest of the case is subduedly brushed. The black aluminum bezel insert is engraved with 10-minute Arabic numerals and 5-minute bar indexes, but the Ref. Like 7922, the minute-by-minute index was omitted. The bezel only rotates counterclockwise. The grooves on the edge of the bezel are Ref. A modern reinterpretation of the design of the 7922, it has an unusual shape even within the Black Bay collection. Ref. Because it inherited the characteristics of the 7922. The crown engraved with a rose has also been proportioned according to the size of the case. Water resistance is 200m, which is sufficient for a diver’s watch.
The brushed, rivet-style three-row stainless steel bracelet adds a distinctive touch. I can match a lighter, lighter rubber strap. All have T-Fit clasps that allow for fine adjustment.
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